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September 6 97.

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The approach to Sydney by the railway is not imposing , but we were most delighted & thankful to get there about 11 — after passing through about 10 miles of beadvertisemented suburbs. It was pouring with rain, much needed after a terrible drought. We settled ourselves in at the Grosvenor, Charlie went out to see Thomas & send off telegrams about the luggage, & I wrote letters & rested. Not much could I see of Sydney through the haze of rain. Thomas Fenn came about 2 o'clock, & as he was most anxious to take us out, out we went, regardless of the pouring rain. We had only our journey clothes on, so did not care. I had various small purchases to make, owing to the lack of luggage, & we found only one shop still open, it being Saturday afternoon. Some of the warehouses & public buildings in Sydney are fine & solid looking, & the whole place has a much more established, & not such a mushroom look as Melbourne. The streets are not wide, they are paved with cabbles, omnibusesview facsimile

rattle over these, in some streets your life is imperilled by steam trams, in others you find great comfort in the cable or electric trams. The traffic is not regulated by the police, but where the steam trams cross the cable ones there is a signal post which is some slight comfort. Except for the corrugated iron verandahs to the shops, Sydney is an English looking place. Sunday July 25 . We woke early to find heavy rain still falling, & we puddled through the wet streets to the Cathedral to Early Service. We liked the Cathedral very much, though it is not such an imposing building as Melbourne & the windows are bad. There is also a dado of most terrible tiles, but it all felt homelike. The service was performed in a somewhat slovenly manner, a good deal by the clerk! but we were too glad to be in a Church again to mind. We managed to get a cab coming home. In the afternoon we energetically started for Ashfield (about 10 miles out) to see the Corlettes. We got an omnibus to the station at Sydney, but there was no cab at Ashfield view facsimile

Station & apparently noone knew where the Corlettes lived. One peculiarity of Australians is that if they can't answer a question they don't say so, but simply stare, & go on. After some wandering & many enquiries we saw the house in the distance & rushed up the path in a pouring shower of rain, certain that we were right by the appearance of an unmistakable Corlette in the door way. They received us very kindly and we promised to come & stay with them on Tuesday if they would excuse our travelling clothes. We saw the whole family except the eldest son who had gone to England. Miss Corlette drove us back in the buggy to the Station. It still rained. We did some telephoning for the first time in our lives that evening to Lady Manning, to whom I had written, & she promised to come to lunch on Tuesday — no, I remember it was Monday evening we telephoned. It is a strange sensation hearing a voice from 5 miles away you last heard in England. On Monday morning Charles went to see Pater's old House, now a convent, & other places with Thomas, & in the afternoonview facsimile

    he took us to the University where we spent a most pleasant afternoon, in spite of the rain.
A good deal of our time in Sydney was spent in various offices, re tickets, steamers, luggage etc, also we presented all the letters of introduction we brought. On Monday morning Charles also went by steamer to Manly, & saw the harbour & brought me back some lovely wild flowers which I painted. He also called on Mr Knox which he returned, finding me in.
Watercolour. Sydney, July 27.



Watercolour. Sydney smoke, July 27.


Watercolour. Flowers, Sydney, July 27.

Tuesday morning we went to the Bank etc, & then looked up Mr. Statham, who was most kind & jolly. He took us in a little electric launch across the Harbour to the Pastoral Produce Co's Warehouse & Refrigerating works, of which he is, I think, Consulting Engineer. It is a huge building. We went up in the lift to the top, passing floor after floor, some empty, some full of huge bales of “dumped” wool. Mr. Statham showedshewed us the machinery where this was done, also the engine rooms where the ammoniaamonia freezing process causes the engines to be covered with snow. In several places a valve causesview facsimile

one side to be covered with snow, while the other is so hot you could not bear your hand on it. We saw the huge condensers, & entered a small & Arctic chamber where the snow lay in heaps and the temperature was about 26 degrees below freezing point. There is a huge store, where the sheep are frozen, after being run in along a rail at a certain height above the floor. There were about 1000 carcasses there as hard as iron, & giving back much the same sound when struck. The view from the roof of the building is very fine, & I got a better idea of Sydney harbour than I ever did in any of our journeys up & down it. It was a brilliantly fine day, the water blue, and enough clouds to make effective shadows on the more distant hills. The shipping was most picturesque, several fine boats, a P & O, N.G.Lloyd, & other big liners lay outside Circular Quay.

Sydney Harbour has a most wonderful number of small bays & inlets, & could, I should think, accommodateaccomodate all the fleets in the world. The effects at sunset are lovely, especially as the features one could dispense with, such as the numbers ofview facsimile

villas that spoil the appearance of some of the most beautiful bays — are then veiled in a mysterious golden light. We were a little disappointed after Hobart, in finding all the hills round Sydney Harbour so low, & no one striking feature, but possibly we had expected more than the beauties we did find in it, from the exaggerated accounts one reads, which are hardly applicable to any place on earth — certainly not to any place where there is a large population, & Nature is by no means left to herself.

Lady Manning came to lunch, & was very kind. She had not got into her house yet, but wanted us to come there on our return. She deprecated our going to the Corlettes, as she said we should not be comfortable, however we were, in an Australian way. They are most kind, & we liked them very much. Isabelle does wonders, but one sees the result of the real mistress of the house being “feckless” in the general muddle & impunctuality of everything. Mr. Corlette is very fond of drawing & took a great interest in my efforts.
Watercolour. Ashfield, July 28.


I spent most of Wednesday morning painting.view facsimile

Dr.Corlette took Charlie a ruridecanal round, in the buggy, & I stayed at Ashfield & lazed, & in the afternoon helped to entertain various ladies who came to tea. Dr. Corlette & Charlie, who mutually liked each other, stayed out so long that the good ladies only had a momentary glimpse of my better half, & I had to be extra amiable to make up. As a punishment poor Charlie got bitten by the Corlettes's horse “Charlie”, a whaler of uncertain temper. It did not graze the skin, but was a bad bruise for nearly a fortnight & needed a lot of rubbing & bandaging & commiseration on my part, as the poor dear could not use his arm. At the Corlettes, as in most Australian houses, you are drinking some hot beverage or other all day long — viz 7 times. Tea before breakfast, tea or coffee at breakfast, cocoa in the middle of the morning, tea at lunch, tea at tea, tea at dinner, & cocoa before going to bed. Isabelle drove us to the Stationnext morning & we had a certain amount of business to do before going to tea with Mrs. Tregarthen Lady Manning's daughter, with whom she was staying in Rose Bay. In answer to telephone news had comeview facsimile

that the luggage had been sent on by ship & would be at Sydney on Friday, for which piece of calm stinginessstingyness Charlie sent the Shaw Savill Co at Melbourne a letter which must have been rather unpleasant to receive. By their carelessness & delay we had missed the fast boat to Rockhampton & had to put up with a little coasting boat (A.U.S.N. Co) the “Eurimbla” leaving on Saturday at 2 p.m. Rose Bay is a very pretty part of Sydney, & we saw from Mrs. Tregarthen's, Pater's old House “Lindsay” in a lovely position with garden down to the water's edge. There are houses all the way to Rose Bay, now. Friday the 30th — the luggage arrived early, & we spent nearly all the morning repacking it. Mr. Thomas Knox came to call, & was very kind, giving us 2 letters of introduction, one, to Mr.Walsh at Brisbane, & one to Mr. Hamilton Turner at Rockhampton, both also in Dalgettys (n.b. Mr. Moore is the head of the Shaw Savill Dept. of Dalgetty's in Sydney). After lunch we went out & did a great deal of business. In the morning we had gone to a little opal shop where I bought four, and also plunged in the way of beingview facsimile

photographed at the celebrated Crown Studios. We got our tickets, money, letters etc, also bought some charming toys for Thomas' children, & then started, somewhat late, by the 4 o'clock steamer for Coogee. So I saw the harbour with the advantage of the sunset light, & did some little sketches of the Heads etc on the way.
Watercolour. Sydney Heads, July 30.


Watercolour. Sydney Heads, July 30.

Coogee is a small place with a big House belonging to the Cardinal, a large number of provision shops and — the Ocean Beach, a sandy shore where we sat and watched the sea as long as we dared. We then patronized the Chief industry of the place (viz, the providing of teas), & just caught our steamer back nicely. We were very happy, sitting in the half darkness, watching the numberless lights reflected in the water, especially so, as the next day we would really be off and near the end of our long journey.
Watercolour. Pinchgut Fort., July 30.


Watercolour. Manly Ocean Beach, July 30.

We had unpacked the presents for Thomas & took them with the toys to his house after dinner, where we spent the evening with him, his wife & little boy (the other 2 children were in bed) to their great satisfaction. He has most excellent quarters, a large airy flat, the top Storey of the Bank of N.S.W.view facsimile

Saturday morning was spent in going to say good bye to Mr. Forsythe (of “Burns Phillips” etc) and finishing up one or two little things & getting the luggage on board. Miss Corlette & the youngest girl, Jean, came to lunch & kindly accompanied us through a heavy shower of rain to the wharf, where we found Thomas awaiting us with a large bunch of violets for me.

The “Eurimbla” did not take very long getting under way, & we were soon steaming down the harbour, I, trying to draw everything as we passed.
Watercolour. Sydney Harbour, July 31.



Watercolour. Sydney from Harbour, July 31.


Watercolour. South Heads, July 31.


Watercolour. Pinchgut Fort., July 31.

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We made great friends with Capt Grahl, & were quite sorry to leave him at Sydney which we reached about 8.30 on Thursday evening
. The faithful Thomas was awaiting us with a pileview facsimile

of letters, among others a note from Lady Manning begging us to come or not, just as suited us best. We thought it the only chance of seeing her, so depositing some of our luggage at the Bank we drove straight to 111 Macleay Street, where we met with a warm welcome. We had a very pleasant time with her & Clara, but every minute was full. I went out with Charlie after breakfast, and brought back the letters from the Bank. There were 3 lots & they took me nearly an hour to read. I answered as many as I could. The news from home was delightful to get: little Harry having a Winchester scholarship, and everything as happy as possible. It quite cheered me up, we had been so long without news. Mrs Tregarthen & Dr Corlette were at lunch. We both like him so much. In the afternoon we went with Lady Manning to the University, and Miss Woolley came in later to see us. Charles also called on Mr. Mitchell. In the evening we dined with Knoxes. Clara went too. Mr. Knox is a most dear old gentleman, & his daughters are very clever.

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